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Your Questions About Deck Software Plans

Wednesday, April 20th, 2011 by Suntan

Donald asks…

What speakers should I get for my rear deck?

I have a honda civic 2000 and there is currently stock 6×9′s in there.

I plan on replacing those with two 8″ subs, requiring me to cut the existing holes to fit them.

Questions:
1.) Is it even worth my time to do such a thing? I listen to drum and bass and I am currently looking for good low bass to fill in the dead space the 6×9′s won’t be filling. ***note: I plan on getting a decent sized sub in the future.

2.) Good brand suggestions? I am currently looking at these two subs, they are rather cheap IMHO and have stats I believe aren’t bad for the price.

http://ikesound.com/kicker_07cvr84

and

http://ikesound.com/rockford_fosgate_punch_p2d48

If these subs are junk I would love to know, I am currently trying to stay under $150 for two 8″s.

3.) How to amp it up? Since I do plan on getting a (possibly) 12″ sub in the future I am curious if I should get two amps (one 2 channel and one mono-D), one 4 channel amp, or something else? ***I’m not exactly a wizz on subs so I am not entirely sure this is a good way to setup and I wouldn’t mind saving money here too if at all possible.

4.) I have a stock head unit and have checked out carPC’s. I am more than worried about power if I decide on a carPC (I’ll be making my own carPC and software). I am interested in making an atom 330 based PC (due to low power consumption) and a 7″ touch screen (or one that will fit).
a) The question, is this pointless (I’m a computer programmer so this type of contraption in my car interests me above and beyond)?
b)Since I won’t have a HU will I have to get amps to power the front door speakers or can I somehow use the amp of my stock head unit? Perhaps bridging something in there?
***Alternately I will just get a HU in which case void out the above

I’ll leave it at that for now.

Suntan answers:

I’ll answer below each of your questions:

“1.) Is it even worth my time to do such a thing? I listen to drum and bass and I am currently looking for good low bass to fill in the dead space the 6×9′s won’t be filling. ***note: I plan on getting a decent sized sub in the future.”

I don’t think it is worth adding the 8″ subs. It is very commong to “stage” the sound in vehicles. Many people don’t even run mids/highs in the rear. They keep the bass in the rear and the mids/highs in the front. Also, if you plan on adding a good quality sub in the future, you will get odd frequency cancellations from running two different types of subs at the same time.

“2.) Good brand suggestions? I am currently looking at these two subs, they are rather cheap IMHO and have stats I believe aren’t bad for the price.

Http://ikesound.com/kicker_07cvr84

and

http://ikesound.com/rockford_fosgate_pun…

If these subs are junk I would love to know, I am currently trying to stay under $150 for two 8″s.”

I didn’t read into either of the subs very much since I would advice against going this route. However, if you decide to go ahead with adding the two 8″ speakers, make sure they are designed for free-air use since they won’t be in an enclosure.

“3.) How to amp it up? Since I do plan on getting a (possibly) 12″ sub in the future I am curious if I should get two amps (one 2 channel and one mono-D), one 4 channel amp, or something else? ***I’m not exactly a wizz on subs so I am not entirely sure this is a good way to setup and I wouldn’t mind saving money here too if at all possible.”

It is most common to use two different amps. One a mono for the sub, and another 2 or 4 channel for the mid/highs. The number of channels depends on if you are going to put mids/highs in the rear, or go with just front staging.

“4.) I have a stock head unit and have checked out carPC’s. I am more than worried about power if I decide on a carPC (I’ll be making my own carPC and software). I am interested in making an atom 330 based PC (due to low power consumption) and a 7″ touch screen (or one that will fit).
A) The question, is this pointless (I’m a computer programmer so this type of contraption in my car interests me above and beyond)?”

Pointless? No. It’s a fun project. However, either go with a solid state hard drive, or suspend a conventional hard drive in a way that the heads won’t be damaged from road vibrations. I’ve debating building my own, but found it to be much easier to load up MP3s on CDs or a USB stick and use a traditional head unit.

“b)Since I won’t have a HU will I have to get amps to power the front door speakers or can I somehow use the amp of my stock head unit? Perhaps bridging something in there?
***Alternately I will just get a HU in which case void out the above”

It depends how you connect the audio outs from the PC. If they are run into an auxillary port on the stock head unit, you won’t need an amp. If you are looking to replace the stock head unit with the display from the PC you will need to add an amp(s).

Good luck!

Donna asks…

Who Knows A Thing Or Two About Car Audio Systems?

My Audio is in an 04′ Grand Am (4 door) I have multiple questions as I am in the process of building it, so any additional help, or suggestions would be great!

H.U. Alpine CDA-9887

EQ: I have no EQ! I am aware that my Alpine is compatable with Imprint. Should I buy the software, or should I look into getting another External EQ?

Front Stage: DLS UP5i’s. Love these little guys, Much more natural soundin than my pevious Boston Pro’s. Mids are flush mounted in stock locations (bottom right of panel) My tweets are tucked in by each side mirror angling towards dome light. Door panel, and inside of door panel are deadened wit Dynamat.

Amp(s) : Memphis MCA3004. It is a 4 Channel Amp that puts out 75 RMS @ 4 ohms per channel. Currently I have it bridged into 2 Channel mode and running my DLS with it. My DLS rate at 150 RMS and I am throwing 230 RMS to each split and they sound flawless! I do plan on getting a bigger 4 Channel Amplifier and running channels 1 and 2 for my front stage, and bridging channels 3 and 4 for a single subwoofer.

Rear Stage: This is personal but I do not plan or wish to buy rear speakers. You truly hear 90 % of the music up front, so why waste my money on rear speakers. Ha I dont sit back there when I drive.

Subwoofer(s) I have a 12″ Boston G3 in a ported enclosure. I want to sell this, and get something new. I know for a clean sounding woofer like this, why would i dare sell it? Well I value my trunk space, and I do not wish to drop over a grand on Dynamat cuz everything rattles in grand ams!!!!! Its annoiying as hell! I was thinking about dropping a single subwoofer in my rear deck? I planned on maybe running a single 8″ and dynamating the rear deck and fabricating something to place over the rrest of my rear deck. When my car gets sold, I am placing everything stock back in it, n swappin my audio system out! Now, should I build a box underneath the deck, or can I just run a subwoofer ffree air? I was thinking about running an ID8″ possibly a 10″ Hell mayb a JBL GTO 8″ I am aware tthat whomever took 1st place in the SQ round at EMMA or Iasca Spring Break Nationals? …ha yeah i know, the subwoofer doesnt make the SQ its the tuning, imaging etc etc. Anyways…suggestions?????????

Suntan answers:

Well, you can speak some geek so that’s always nice. Lol Anyway,

I understand what you mean about the rear speakers not doing a whole lot. I had a Chevy “Crapalier” Cavalier and the back speakers only seemed to benefit the people in the back. Lol

When you get the bigger amp you can’t run channels 1 and 2 for speakers and then a sub on 3 and 4, reason being there’s no way to set a L/P filter for channels 3 and 4 and a FULL or H/P filter for channels 1 and 2 (on most 4-channel amps.)

As far as putting a sub in the rear deck: DON’T. If you thought it rattled bad before, it’ll be worse later. Part of that reason is b/c the rear speaker brackets aren’t bolted in, they’re just popped in place. BUT, that’s always been something I’ve wanted to do and I’m sure if you get enough dynamat and bolt the speaker brackets into place it’ll work.

I think you have a good idea what you’re doing overall. I suggest getting a shallow mount sub for the trunk if you don’t pursue the rear deck sub project. I personally like the Polk Audio MM1240 subs. I have two and I’m giving them each 375wrms and they’re in a ported box. Well, good luck man!

Helen asks…

Making My Giga Beat S Work For Me?

I am planning on purchasing this mp3 player very soon,
the 60GB
Version to be exact and I had a few questions to ask. First, I was
wondering how do you get your music files on to this device. Do you
use some sort of Giga software or can you simply drag and drop
directly from a folder or media library on your computer to this
device(plug-n-play)? I use Winamp and Musicmatch and I was also
curious to whether or not this product is compatible with either one
of them. Both of these programs have a portable devices feature and
it would be really cool if i could transfer music through them. Also,
what is Microsofts Portable Media Center software and how does it
work in relation to Windows Media Player? Ok last question and a
little off topic………..I recently installed a CD player into my
car that also has a USB input on the front of the deck, do yall think
I could play my music files through my car stereo? Thanks!

Suntan answers:

I like you
kiss in the face

Betty asks…

Building a computer to work as a portable video/audio recording hub and need some advice.?

First the question, then more info:
I need advice on what CPU, and video capture card to get for a small PC I am building. I will choose the motherboard based on the CPU and the needs I describe below. The two video capture cards are listed below as well.

I recently bought a working old studio camera that has no memory of any kind, no tape slots, nothing but some RCA cables to plug into a recording deck. I am planning on building one. This computer will only be for recording; no editing will be performed on it at all! Currently its a Micro ATX Slim flat computer to take around with me. I have a sound card that supports multiple XLR inputs (M-AUDIO Delta 1010LT), and two possible video capture cards that support RCA (Pinnacle MovieBoard Plus 230100124 or Hauppauge WinTV-HVR2250). It will have a multi-card reader to allow people with digital camcorders to offload their memory when full as well as fire-wire, usb, and such just in case. I am also including a DVD burner with LiteScribe as it only costs $2 more than without LiteScribe and allows me to install software. I have been out of the computer loop for a while and what I basically need to know is, what is an adequate CPU to record with? I prefer AMD if possible, but not needed, and I don’t need anything fancy, just something that will record without glitching. Also, does anyone know which of the Video Capture cards (Pinnacle MovieBoard Plus 230100124 or Hauppauge WinTV-HVR2250) is better for recording different formats?

Suntan answers:

Streaming data wise an Intel Core2 would be your best bet, they have more on chip cache and can stream data better then the AMD’s currently can. In terms of capture cards Pinnacle is THE name in capture cards, I’ve used both and Huppauge always seemed to be hacked together cards with poor support and poor drivers. Go with the Pinnacle. Litescribe is useless unless you want to put pretty designs on the tops of CD’s/DVD’s but the discs that can do that actually cost more. No matter what you do it will be almost impossible to record directly to a disc, that would require MASSIVE computing power and a LOT of ram. I would recommend at least 2 gigs of ram anyway, anything over 3 and you’re going to have to run a 64 bit OS, but seeing as how 8 gigs of ram is about 100$ now, there’s almost no reason NOT to do it (unless you hate vista). Two 500 gig drives in a SATA RAID-0 will yield you around 950 something gigs of useable space which is enough to record a few hundred hours of SDTV video (480i).

Linda asks…

Best buy question about Performance service Plan… PLEASE Help!!! Return laptop policy due to damage?Replace?

Hi,
I had recently brought a laptop into bestbuy for a software repair. when i came home, my 4 year old nephew got a hold of it, and took it outside and well.. threw it off the deck. ( very embarresing.) I have a 3 year performance service plan at bestbuy. My question is, if i bring it back to bestbuy, will they give me a store credit? or will they just give me a replacment laptop? I would rather have a store credit because Ive had problems with this laptop since i got it. ( oh, and its WAYYYY to damaged to be repaired)

So wat do you guys think? Will they give a store credit?? Or just replace it?
Please put how u know if they will either replace it or give me a credit.

Thank you very much!!!!

Suntan answers:

“Parts and Labor Coverage- We cover all the parts and labor necessary to return your product to factory specifications. If we cannot repair your product, we will provide a replacement.”

Hard to say, because they’re more likely to replace something that doesn’t look as if it was dropped. Not saying it’s your fault, but since people abuse the system, it might be tough to get them on your side.

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