
Robert asks…
how much per sq foot for white cedar deck 5/4 radius edge on 2×8 pt sub frame with 8 inch sono?
tubes , deck less than two feet from ground, ledger , at wall,, deck curved at front slightly 1×6 cedar cut on back, over all deck sub frame screw nailed surfce gal nails

Suntan answers:
$20 per square foot labor & material is probably a good estimate. I haven’t priced White Cedar lately.

Paul asks…
anyone know about hidden deck fasteners?
installing a deck and want to use a hidden deck fastener..i know about tiger claw and there’s another brand out there that uses a rail type of system that screws into the joist then u screw up into the decking ..whats the best one to use in putting in a cedar deck

Suntan answers:
I liked the rail system when I helped my brother in law do his. Now most of his deck was accessible from below on ladders. The only PIA part was the low part that I had to do on the ground under the deck while he placed the decking and kept the spacing .. GL

John asks…
Why do my wood screws always get ruined?
Hi –
I can’t tell you how many times my wood screws get ruined when the head of the screw gets bored out by my drill (and I have to wrench the screw back out, which takes for ever). Do I have to pre-drill every hole? I know that I’m not drilling too fast…
I screwed down a deck’s worth of cedar with no pre drills and no problems, but little projects around my house are killing me.
To me, I either have to predrill everything or buy better screws. Mine are regular wood screws from Depot. Zinc, I believe.
I know this is super basic, but do you have any helpful shortcuts/hints?
Thanks,

Suntan answers:
Here are some basic tips:
Use a good tip – it needs to be the right size and type, undamaged, and not rounded off on the edges. When using “phillips” bits, there are 3 sizes, #1, #2, and #3. #2 is the most common size.
Use the clutch setting on your driver. I don’t know how many screwheads I’ve seen my employees strip, becuase they didn’t adjust the clutch from ‘drill’ to one of the number settings for the driver. What number you actually need, depends on what you are screwing into – how hard it is. I start with a lower clutch setting, and move to higher settings, as long as the screw is being left protruding.
Most importantly – keep the driver in line with the screw. The most common reason for a screw head to strip out, is because the driver was held at an angle to the screw. I had one fellow, that stripped every single screw. I could use the same driver, screw, and setting, and get a perfect set, where he would strip it out — until he learned to hold the driver straight. Working in softer materials, you can get away with sloppy handling of the driver, as it is more likely to push the screw in, even if being held crooked – not so with harder materials. You have to hold it straight in line with the screw.
You will also find that some screws are ‘softer’ than others — for example, stainless steel screws are notorious for stripping out, because they are so soft. For this type of fastener, you need to purchase a softer metal tip, so that the tip will break, before the screw head strips out. Buy extra tips, hehehe. Brass screws are the same way – its a softer metal.
Where possible, use a screw design that is made to grip better, and be less likely to strip out, like the “square drive” (aka ‘Robertson’ head). Where the ‘Phillips’ head looks like a “+” sign, the ‘square drive’ is just that, a square socket. These also come in different sizes, so it is important to get the correct bit for the screw. Others are ‘clutch’ bits, “Torx”, etc. (you find ‘torx’ head screws in a lot of automotive applications)
I prefer to use the square drive wood screws myself. I know the local hardware store pushes ‘sheetrock’ screws to be used in most applications, but in my experience, it’s too easy to snap them off – they’re not as strong as wood screws.
Have Fun

Susan asks…
when building a deck what is the best way to caulk the nails or screws?
So I am planning on building a small desk made of Cedar wood.
But trying to figure out the best way to seal it so it does not rot out. My current desk was built a few years ago but done rotted. I was told to use screws and some how caulk the screws when drilling in the desk. What is the best approach for this?
Drill first then add caulk, then screw in the screws into the desk.
Any suggestions on how to make this work best
I am open to Ideas!!.
Deck like wood desk not desk.
I dont have a desk, I dont work at home.

Suntan answers:
Desk, deck whats the diffrence? My deck is bigger than my desk, but not as pretty. My deck rots but i didnt build it and my desk isnt exposed to elements.
But it really dosent matter what you do to the screws, what matters is a nice uniform coat of waterproofing or perhaps a nautical paint coat to protect from the elements.
Oh and yeah , use the galvanized wood screws

Richard asks…
In Canada, who sells stainless steel nails? They are hard to find now…?
I am rebuilding my porch and steps out of cedar. Years ago, I used 3 inch stainless steel finishing nails for the decking. But now it looks like nobody sells them anymore. Does anybody know where to get them in the Ottawa area in Canada. The reason I like them is because they are very rust-resistant and I prefer the nails because you can countersink the nail heads and hardly notice them compared to screws.
As an alternative, would hot-dipped galvanized nails be O.K.?
Thanks everyone!

Suntan answers:
Stainless steel nails? Wow, that is going back! – Yes hot dipped galvanized is good.
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